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It’s not the end of the world.

The Inherent Bummer Guide to Portugal

The Inherent Bummer Guide to Portugal

You’re about to see first hand how much I love Portugal. And sure, I have some familial connections there (I’m only a few generations removed from my family in the Azores) and it obviously offers tons of great surf, but it’s the only European country I have managed to feel comfortable navigating. And I don’t know Portuguese. 

I can now stitch together memories and recommendations from both recent trips and a few way from way back when, aided by the thoughtful contributions from legendary locals and expats, to deliver this beautiful blanket of information to secure yourself a great time in Portugal. 

From the coastal beach towns to the tiled and cobblestone streets of Lisbon, Portugal has all the charm and history of a European city without feeling like you're falling into a trap at any given moment. 

And lucky for you, I also have a several very well-connected close friends who call it home — including Nic Von Rupp and my old expat pal Adam Warren, the up and coming groms of 3-Pod Mix and Mario Wehle, the owner of Magic Quiver —  a must-see surf shop and coffee spot in Ericeira. You're about to be very well-taken care of in Portugal. 

Over the past few years knowing how to navigate a city became increasingly overwhelming. The beauty of the internet is all the information we have access to. But in my recent experience, trying to execute an itinerary on your own is exhausting. How are you supposed to know what’s worth seeing and what’s a scam? Who can you trust? Definitely not a Trip Advisor or Yelp. So how about us? 

We hope this solves that problem for you and still puts you in a place to make your own discoveries along the way. So book your flight, pull this up and there is nothing you can’t do.

This guide is both extensive and simple — mixing luxury and budget options together while offering you the ability to choose your own adventure. This is likely the only thing you’ll ever need to fill several journeys to Portugal. If it’s listed here, it’s been vetted by myself or our very well-informed local friends. We’ve included surfing, food, drink, accommodations and overviews of Lisbon, Ericeira, Cascais, Sintra, Peniche and a bit on Porto as well if you can make it up there.

We did everything but book your ticket. Grab a mini Super Bock and a pastel de nata. It’s time to go to Portugal.—Travis Ferré 

MEET YOUR GUIDES

Nic Von Rupp (Von Froth): Rips anything from 2ft to 100ft. Same goes for guiding you through anything from dive bars to fine dining. Always frothing harder than you. Speaks six languages. 

Adam Warren: Well-traveled and well-cultured expat from San Diego, CA — and regular Inherent Bummer contributor. Can find his way around any international city and knows how to navigate a foreign bar better than anyone. Now living in Cascais, Portugal.

Diogo Martins: ⅓ of 3PodMix, Lisbon local and our favorite Portuguese goofy.

Mario Wehle: Owner/operator of the best shop in Portugal: Magic Quiver in Ericeira. Curating modern surf culture with a Portuguese twist.

Gui Martins: Brother to Diogo and filmer to the stars of 3PodMix and more. Leading the scene when it comes to making surf films — a finger on the pulse guy.

Afonso Lopes: Actor and former nightclub promoter. Afonso knows where the party is if you're in Lisbon.

Luísa Albuquerque e Castro: Local Portuguese insider with deep knowledge of the best restaurants, hidden gems, and cultural experiences across the country.

SURF GUIDE

Overview

Portugal offers a mind-boggling abundance of surf options. Punchy beach breaks, monster slabs, long point breaks, 100-foot waves — whatever you're after, it’s there.

The climate is similar to Southern and Central California. It can be downright chilly, but it ain't that bad. The waves and setups should be more than enough to get you out there. The locals have a few spots they keep an eye on, so be aware and be respectful, but for the most part there is plenty of room for everyone.

Carcavelos.

Lisbon Area

Carcavelos: Fun, punchy beachbreak suitable for all levels. Usually crowded but good vibes. Plenty of cool bars and restaurants at the beach.

Santo Amaro (Oeiras): Nice righthand pointbreak, good option during storms.

Paço de Arcos: Fun wedge alternative when other spots are blown out.

Cascais Area

Praia de Guincho: "Like if Ehukai and Hossegor had a Portuguese bastard child." Big open ocean beachie and Adam Warren's favorite local spot. Make sure to book Furnas do Guincho for the best seafood lunch afterwards.

"Suicida" (São Pedro): Local slab for the more adventurous.

Several secret reef breaks: Between Cascais and Carcavelos — if you spend enough time with the right people you may unlock these. But take your time, there are plenty of options until then. 

Ericeira Area

Ribeira d'Ilhas: Famous wave that lives up to its reputation when conditions are right. Suitable for all levels.

Foz do Lizandro: Welcoming to all surf levels.

Praia de São Julião: Another spot that's friendly to various skill levels.

Coxos: A Portuguese classic right hand pointbreak but respect the locals and you'll be good.

Pedra Branca: Great for goofyfoots.

Peniche Area

Supertubos: Portugal's most famous barrel.

Baleal Beach: The go-to spot when storms hit — always finds a way to work regardless of conditions.

Peniche Bay: Great for all levels.

Sintra Coast

Praia Grande: Closest beach to Sintra with the best waves. Beach break sandbars are ever changing but get super fun. Amazing restaurant at the end of the road called Bar do Fundo. You can do a seaside cliff walk from here to Praia da Adraga.

Praia da Adraga: Beautiful little beach in Almocageme village, accessible via scenic cliff trail from Praia Grande.

Praia da Ursa: Beautiful beach with difficult access but worth visiting, close to Cabo da Roca (the westernmost point in Continental Europe).

FOOD & DRINK

Prado in Lisbon.

LISBON

Dinner Spots

Traditional Portuguese:

To see the rest of the guide, become a paid subscriber to our Substack. You’ll have access to the archive of posts, weekly posts include something useful, inspiration and an interview with interesting surfers.

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